16 Mar MPD Steak Kitchen – Just a Lil’ Bit Fancy in Berwick
MPD steak kitchen brings a touch of theatrics to the South Eastern burbs. For the Zagames group, the million dollar steak house, is the diamond in the rough. It’s lightyears away from the family-friendly Zagames next door. The residents of Berwick breath a sigh of relief, there isn’t much to eat, this far South. Now, there’s billowing clouds of liquid nitrogen and tomohawk steaks the size of a baby. But how does MPD compare to its CBD counterparts? Is it worth the trek down, for us spoilt inner city latte sippers?
You’d be pretty daft to miss the theme of MPD. Leather throw-rugs, portraits of cows, flame- lit skulls. It seems our bovine friend, features in both the menu and decor. You’d never guess that you’re in Berwick, with the world-class cellar and million dollar decor. There’s no minimalism here. It’s full blown sensuous cow decor, complete with fireplace, darkly lit ambiance and a bit of nitrogen magic. You’re in the meat packing district, now.
Lamb Ribs w/ Salsa Verde, Pickled carrots
Cured Kingfish w/ Pickled Kohlrabi, Green Apple
Steak Tartare, 63 degree Egg, Horseradish, Potato Chips
Executive Chef, Chris Bonello, heads the MPD kitchen, with an evolving seasonal menu. As you’d expect, meat is prime and centre, with supplier’s including David Blackmore’s infamous wagyu, Flinder’s Island lamb and Moonlight Oysters. Expects pops of 63 degree eggs. Scoop cubes of fresh steak tartare onto slivers of crispy potatoes chips. Oysters are zesty, with pops of the Australian finger lime and granita. Finger licking lamb ribs, arrive with the cutest pickled orange balls. The starters are prime to impress.
Millas Farm Duck Breast w/ Beetroot, Witlof, Walnuts
300 g Scotch Fillet w/ Bearnaise Sauce
For the big guns, 300g Scotch fillet, dredged in an indulgent bearnaise sauce beckons. Sides of duck fat roasted potatoes and truffle mac & cheese, complete the dream team. Dessert is a mixed affair. A crack of caramelised exterior reveals a Valrhona chocolate brulee. The apple tarte tatin arrives in flakey buttery pastry. The MPD Tiramisu drowns in a spectacle of liquid nitrogen, frozen intermittently to create a ‘snow’ of coffee. The appearance is theatric, but flavour wise, the intensity could be amplified.
Apple Tart Tatin w/ Vanilla Ice Cream
MPD Tiramisu w/ Chocolate Soil, Coffee Snow, Crispy Pearls
Cocktails are another theatric affair. Put your googles on for another misty concoction. House-made gingerbread ice cream is made at the table, solidifying over the espresso martini. At this stage, the nitrogen starts to feel gimmicky. Melbourne has had its fair share of nitrogen ice cream. But… I guess it’s enjoyable all the same?
MPD outperforms certain CBD steakhouses. The prices point towards casual dining. But ‘casual’ in Melbourne is another level. Lunch specials include 3 courses for $45 or $95 for the chef’s tasting menu. Pretty accessible pricing for the calibre of food. The plating and style emulate the finer end of the dining spectrum. I still wouldn’t classify MPD as ‘fine’, but rather a suave cocktail bar, mixed with fancy-pants gastropub? If you’re heading down to the east, MPD is worth the pit stop.
Hungrycookie dined courtesy of MPD Steak Kitchen. All opinions are strictly my own.
MPD Steak Kitchen
288 Clyde Rd