27 Aug It’s flaming hot at The Modern Eatery
Call the fire brigade, it’s flaming hot at The Modern Eatery. Swan St’s new contemporary house of Aburi, harnesses the power of flame, to lightly sear seafood by blowtorch. The technique originates from Tokyo’s Edo period, where searing the exterior extends the lifespan of fish. Hundreds of years later, aburi is well-loved amongst sushi enthusiasts. Chef Seiya Kurogi, fuses traditional elements of Miyazaki, with creative nuance. A sprinkle of anori here, sprigs of purple cauliflower there. I can confirm that the Aburi is damn good..
You might be surprised, The Modern Eatery started in the land of quokkas and sandy white beaches. The desire to experiment, with the fastidious tastebuds of Melbournians, inspired the move to Richmond. Chef Seiya, and co-owners Jason and Edward packed their bags. ‘ I want people from Japan to be able to walk into the restaurant and eat something they know and love, while appreciating the modern twist,” says Seiya.
Where ‘The Modern Eatery’ fits
Japanese in Melbourne can be categorised into three segments. The first, is fine-dining – think Minamishima , Nobu, Kisume. The second is cheap eats – think Purple Japanese Cafe, Kuu. The third is fusion – but casually priced eg. Mr Miyagi, Ichi ni nana. Sushi tacos are funky and fun. Omazake is exceptional. But good quality sushi/sashimi is hard to come by without the hefty price tag. This is the gap that The Modern Eatery can fill.
The word ‘aburi’ (炙り) originates from the word ‘ aburu’ which means to scorch. Highlights include the seared miso New Zealand salmon and the Salmon Oshi with sweet aburi sauce. The simple act of searing, creates a wonderful aura of smoky nuance. Balanced with pops of baby tomato, purple cauliflower and sweet aburi sauce. Simple Japanese flavours are heightened with the power of fire. For non traditional Japanese, there’s grilled chicken bao, colourful Caribbean Treasure sushi etc
Amongst the OTT insta-worthy trends of Japanese pizzas and burgers, it’s possible we’ve lost sight of simplistic Japanese. Aburi is where The Modern Eatery excels. We only sampled two Aburi dishes, but I’m already planning a return visit. To the Modern Eatery team – welcome to Melbourne, ‘there’s no place like home’.
Must order: Anything Aburi (seared on the menu)!
Rating: 3.7 cookies out of 5
Seared Miso New Zealand Salmon
Salmon Oshi w/ Signature Aburi Sauce, Sweet Soy
Miyazaki Chicken w/ Fried Chicken, House made Tartare, Nanban suace, Kitty K’s slaw
Bao Bae – Grilled Chicken Bao, Aonori, Red Pickle
Caribbean Treasure – Japanese Salsa, Cucumber tempura bits, Avocado, Spicy Sauce, Assorted sashimi
Hungrycookie dined courtesy of The Modern Eatery. All opinions are strictly my own.
The Modern Eatery
176 Swan St